A History of the Craft in West Wales

I'm not sure who wrote this history originally, but it's quite interesting.

History of Craft in the West Wales Province

Our Masonic Province covers the entire Counties of Carmarthenshire, Cardiganshire and Pembrokeshire - in Welsh, Caerfyrddin, Ceredigion and Penfro. The Welsh names are a reminder that the Province is bilingual with an increasing number of newcomers busily learning Welsh.

Masonically, we are a small Province as far as numbers are concerned, comprising twenty-five Craft Lodges. Distances that must be covered when visiting Lodges are large, bearing in mind that the Province covers two thousand square miles. Yet, despite distances, members in the Province feel they belong to a large family and it is quite soon that a newly made Freemason gets to know his own Lodge Brethren and, eventually, the Province as a whole.

It is hard for anyone in this part of the United Kingdom not to be aware of the Celtic tradition with its mystery and magic; its romantic lore; of ancient princes and saints; of battles; intrigues and pilgrimages. There is still in the age of science a sense of awe as the traveller' passes through remote valleys, under the stern bare hills, the rugged coastline, the ruined monasteries, the standing stones and the ancient burial chambers.

A survey of this Province must deal with each of the three Counties in turn since they differ in character, not only in terrain and social structure, but in temperament and attitude.

PEMBROKESHIRE

The Welsh Penfro seems to suggest the end (Pen) of the land or district (Bro) which aptly describes geographically a large promontory jutting westward into the Irish Sea. Its coastline, not unlike its Celtic sisters of Cornwall and Brittany, is a reminder that during the sixth century Celtic heyday there was considerable linguistic communication between each of these similar coastal people, each with its share of rich historic events, while imparting to the sensitive inquirer the aura of legend and myth. 

Let us begin with South Pembrokeshire, working our way around the beautiful coastal path from Saundersfoot and Tenby in the south, around St. David's Head to Fishguard on the north coast.

The attractive resort of Tenby (Dinbych a Pysgod) was founded in Roman times and continues with its unspoilt blend of mediaeval walls and narrow streets together with beaches full of feature to attract and enchant its many visitors. Tucked away discreetly in one of its central streets is the Masonic Temple whose history dates to the end of the last century.

Moving further west we come to the historic town of Pembroke with its fine mediaeval castle dominating the town and countryside. In 1457, King Henry VIII was born there; in 1648, it was besieged by Cromwell.

Pembroke remains a gracious and unspoilt place sharing its Masonic life with nearby Pembroke Dock, of very different character. Here was a flourishing Royal Dockyard in 1814, with ship-building an industry to the fore during much of the last century. During the 1939/ 45 war it was used as a base for Sutherland flying boats; and while this aspect of its life and industry has now gone, it has retained its maritime flavour as a Ferry Terminal for Ireland. The Masonic Temple here, built in 1905, has a unique octagonal structure.

 

Across the modern bridge we span the estuary of the two rivers, Eastern and Western Cleddau and come to the oil-importing and refining terminal of Milford Haven, (Aber Dau Gleddau - the estuary of the two Cleddau rivers) with nearby Neyland; both towns having their own Masonic Temple. An interesting feature is that the very earliest recorded warranted Lodge in the Province - St. David's Lodge, No. 366 - was founded in 1821. Their purpose-built Masonic Temple overlooks what is regarded as the finest natural harbour in Europe.

Milford Haven's history really begins in 1790 and by 1906 it was the sixth largest fishing port in Britain. Sadly, the fishing industry has declined but other industries have now taken over.

As we move northwards along the coast, we are reminded that this is designated an area of outstanding beauty. The coastal path, outlined on the one side by sea and the other by an amazing variety of wildflowers, brings us to St. David's, the smallest Cathedral City in Britain with a sanctuary building dating back to the twelfth century. Before the Norman Cathedral, however, St. David, the Patron Saint of Wales, had established his small community on the site in 550 A.D. Little did he realise then that that spot was to become a magnet for many thousands of visitors and pilgrims over the centuries.

Continuing along the coast we come to the towns of Fishguard and Goodwick, together making up a thriving terminal to Ireland, very much in the wake of those early sixth century crossings by St. David and St. Patrick. The harbour here was once regarded as a rival to Southampton, the liner Mauretania being once berthed there; not forgetting that our Masonic lifeboat was stationed there for some six months. Today the area retains its welcoming and lively atmosphere with a major musical festival for good measure. The Temple there is much used by two Craft Lodges and other Masonic Orders.

We must remember that Pembrokeshire consists not only of the coastal area. A journey south from Fishguard takes us over the hills of the Preseli range, mysterious and redolent of Celtic saints and legends; the shouting of drovers, unspoilt villages nestling under the brooding slopes with only television aerials distinguishing the scene from its ancient past.

Then reaching Haverfordwest, the County Town, with its twelfth century castle, whose mediaeval ramparts still determine the shape of the streets and the layout of the Georgian houses. A busy port until the arrival of the railway in 1853, it retains its quality and grace for modern eyes. Masonry here has an interesting history. Cambrian Lodge is the second earliest in Wales, going back as far as 1741, erased in 1773 and finally warranted in 1840.

Further east on the main A40 the traveller will be repaid by a visit to the mediaeval town of Narberth with its remains of a Norman Castle and its thirteenth-century Church. Its Masonic Temple has been superbly constructed from a former Wesleyan Chapel to a well-furnished centre.

CARDIGANSHIRE

Now, returning to the coast at Fishguard and following the coast road through Newport (Pemb) the traveller crosses the border into Ceredigion, the Welsh name for Cardiganshire and arrives at the County Town of Cardigan. Here we are further enchanted with a market centre which, on the estuary of one of Wales's great rivers - the Teifi, has retained its traditional charm and withstood most modern depredations. Sometimes, if lucky, the visitor might spot a coracle fisherman on the river plying his circular basket-like craft for the salmon and sea trout for which the Teifi is famous.

It is interesting that the Masonic Temple in the town is an old vicarage where two Craft Lodges as well as other Orders meet; this ensures a promising Masonic future in the area.

Further up the Welsh coast lies the nineteenth century Georgian town of Aberaeron, utterly unspoilt by modern interference; a seaside resort of diverse pleasurable activity, fishing and boating. The Masonic Temple here is sustained by a thriving Craft Lodge supported by other orders.

The town of Aberystwyth, another beautiful seaside resort situated at the northern extreme of the Western Division, claims with some justice to be the Athens of Wales. Here stands the first constituent college of the University of Wales: the world-renowned Plant Breeding Station; the National Library, and the College of Librarianship. Aberystwyth's Masonic Temple hosts two Craft Lodges around which exist several related Masonic Orders. Passing southwards inland through the University town of Lampeter, we cross the border into the third county of our Province.

CARMARTHENSHIRE

This county reminds one that agriculture is nowadays Wales's major economy. Typical of the lush gentle rolling countryside is the valley of the Towy which runs from the great reservoir of Rhandirmwyn down to Llanstephen, bounded by prosperous farms with their green fields and well cared for cattle and sheep. This was the scene before the Industrial Revolution introduced mining for coal and iron. Now, after the decline of these industries, the county is reverting to its ancient character.

Carmarthen, the capital of the larger Dyfed, goes back to Roman times. The Romans called it Maridunum and made it one of the most important towns in South Wales. The remains of the Roman amphitheatre can still be seen in the town; also, when viewed from a distance, can be seen the ancient ramparts which form the stepped position of the rows of houses.

The town has its interest and charm despite modernisation by over-enthusiastic builders. Mediaevalism and modernisation, eighteenth century and Victorian have all left their legacies; and despite, but perhaps because of, its variety together with its chequered and turbulent history, the attraction for its inhabitants remains the Masonic Temple. This is much used and lies opposite one of the oldest hotels in Wales, the Ivy Bush Royal.

The oldest Lodge here, St. Peter's, No. 476, warranted in September 1841, held its meetings in the Ivy Bush Royal Hotel. Before this there was the Ancients Lodge, No. 158 which had also met at the same venue from 1811 onwards. In 1814 it joined with the Union Lodge to form the Perfect Friendship Lodge.

However, we have evidence of the warranting of a Lodge in 1724 which met at the Bay Nags' Head and Star in Dark Gate which, in 1733, moved to the Bunch of Grapes.

It is recorded that later in 1753 this Lodge was replaced by the Lodge of Perfect Friendship.

An interesting Masonic personality connected with this latter Lodge was Sir Edward Mansel, who became Worshipful Master of the Goose and Gridiron Lodge, one of the four famous Lodges that were to form the first Grand Lodge of England, in 1717.

The annual meetings of our Provincial Grand Lodge were held at different venues over the years, but for the last thirty years have met in the ideal surroundings of Trinity College, Carmarthen, which was one of the original Anglican Teacher Training Colleges, but now linked with the University of Wales.

The last stage of the journey through the Province takes us to the largest town in the area, Llanelli; a town with a long and honoured history, rightly associated with the coal and steel industries of the Industrial Revolution. As in many similar towns in South Wales, those engaged in coal mining and steel production evolved into a society which was quite distinctive, close-knit, mutually loyal with strong family traditions, and a corporate strength in the face of many hardships and disasters. Llanelli has no fewer than five Craft Lodges together with a considerable number of related orders among which the sense of fellowship and mutual support typifies the town.

The present Masonic Temple is a splendid purpose-built modern building dating from 1936 and is an eloquent testimony to a vibrant fellowship.